By Dan Gilgoff
Born and raised in east Texas (with a seven-year New York absence that stole all but a trace of his Lone Star drawl), Fontana is one of the area’s barbecue proprietors native to stalwart barbecue country, and it shows on the menu. At Capital Q you can get smoked sausage from Elgin, one of a constellation of towns outside Austin settled by German immigrants and still home to legendary butchers and smokehouses.
Capital Q’s dry rubs (spices dusted onto meats before they hit the smoker) and barbecue sauces (ladled over the meats just after they hit the plate) also claim a Texas birthright, with ancho and chipotle peppers giving the Q’s tomato-based sauce a south-of-the-border kick. Fontana developed his recipes in consultation with “Barbeque’N With Bobby,” a cookbook by Bobby Seale, Black Panthers co-founder and native Texan.