707
H Street, NW
Washington, DC 20001
202.347.8396
smokin@capitalqbbq.com
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BACK TO WHAT'S
SMOKIN'
Capital Q
Washingtonian Restaurant Review - February 2001
By Robert Shoffner
Just when you thought you had a handle on the politically correct definition
of barbecue--unsauced ribs crusted with a dry-rub mixture of spices,
or pulled pork slathered with sweet-spicy Memphis sauce--the rules have
changed. Real barbecue now means Texas-style beef brisket: a flat slab
of meat that starts out as tough as a tractor tire before it is slowly
and gently cooked to tenderness in a hickory smoker, yielding slices
of crisp-crusted, smoke-suffused beef.
Expatriate Texans looking for the genuine article should feel encouraged
by the credentials of Nick Fontana, Capital Q's pit boss: At the Republican
convention in Philadelphia, Fontana and his assistants hand-sliced half
a ton of brisket for 4,000 guests who attended a party hosted by House
majority leader Dick Armey. More testimonials to Fontana's barbecue
prowess can be found in the autographed photographs of Texans who have
had their parties catered by Capital Q.
In this cozy little storefront--which may be the area's smallest restaurant
with a bar--the first choice at the self-service chow line is a plate
or sandwich of that moist brisket with either the mild or the hot sauces,
both house-made. If you get a sandwich, ask that some of the crunchy
"burnt ends" be included. Newcomers will get a fine introduction
to the bounty of Fontana's pit by ordering a combination platter of
the brisket, some firm-textured pork ribs, which have the flavor of
mild smoked ham, and a link of the fine, peppery Elgin sausage imported
from Texas.
Capital Q, 707 H St., NW; 202-347-8396. Open Monday through Saturday
for lunch and dinner. Wheelchair accessible.
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